Fall Breaks from Trend Victimhood

Both a staple and statement, fall furs go playful in brilliant hues. Colors clash to perfection on fur coats at the Tom Ford Autumn/Winter 2013 Womenswear runway.

For decades women have adopted trend identities in adapting their look to disposable styles. Consequently, these women have become trend victims. This year’s fall fashion cycle has however taken a turn. Color, shape and fabric are redefining women and men’s wardrobes in ways that don’t entirely alter one’s personal style, but rather build upon it. As textile innovation dives fashion forward, the industry’s ongoing momentum has boosted with the bond of incongruent materials.

Oversized coats: Labels like Céline have hinted to the style in collections passé, but the silhouettes of the season are somehow a bit softer and the fabrics that bear a bit more of a gleam. It is drastically oversized coats bearing dropped shoulders, large lapels and extra-long cuffs that shape up Autumn/Winter 2013 runways. Stella McCartney and Lanvin take a menswear approach with oversized grey coats bearing a masculine flare with eminent turtlenecks. Ralph Lauren goes arsenal adding a militant twist to the shape. Christopher Kane keeps to navy, fall’s new black, while Peter Pilotto spices up the look with prints and colors that so purposely clash. Ralph Rucci, Kenneth Cole, Marni and Carven also keep with the cool oversized coat look.

Winter White: White was merely an accent color for cold seasons past. This year, an influx of head-to-toe white masks the fall runways like a layer of winter’s first snow. A breath of fresh air, white extends throughout varying shades of ivory and cream on jeans, pale sweaters, coats and accessories. Brands including Céline, Giambattista Valli, BCBG Max Azria and Salvatore Ferragamo nod to winter white, but only in the most rich and plush materials. The season’s favorite monochromatic look makes even more a statement than neon. 

Fur: No longer limited to coats, fur extends beyond staples to statements. On runways from Fendi to Emilio Pucci, the look stole center stage. Whether it be around the arms, wrists, hands, shoes and neck, playing it safe is no longer an alternative.  Ralph Lauren goes Russian imperial with the look at his A/W 13 collection. A twist to the military look, Lauren shows radiant fur hats that provide a definition to evening gowns and cashmere turtleneck sweaters. Neon bright fur makes a mass appeal on jackets at Tom Ford where divergent color pallets clash to perfection. Brightly colored fur is all about options.

Grey head-to-toe: On the weekend or at work, one of the simplest trends for men this fall is grey worn from head-to-toe. Contrasting shades of grey reflect throughout the Viktor & Rolf Monsieur A/W 2013 collection. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren nod to sleek silhouettes in varying shades and prints of grey matter paired together for an ensemble effect. Charcoal suits push the safest color in a man’s wardrobe aside at the YMC A/W 13 collection. On the same spectrum, Richard Nicoll’s A/W 13 menswear collection infuses light cement colored suits, layering metallic for an elevated outerwear edge.

Dark Red: Dark red in rich silks and velvets dominate A/W collections. Alexander McQueen sent an opulent red velvet jacket down the A/W 13 runway that alludes to the top tier of bourgeoisie.  Burberry Prorsum and Prada also incorporated red jackets into their collections. Giorgio Armani plays upon lavish elements with dark velvet trousers while Richard James took the red revelry to loafers. Haider Ackermann heated up Paris last month with his second sortie into menswear, premiering a head-to-toe dark red vest, trouser and loafer look. 

Fall trends hold unexpected surprises in the dominance of unlikely colors and shapes with the emergence of beaming textures. Perhaps the forthcoming season’s bright outlook will shepherd in a new optimism for the recovering economy.

Impeccable tailoring is only one side of the story. Fall menswear constitutes setting the safest color aside to make room for fall’s sleek new palette. Dark red dominates the Burberry Prorsum A/W 2013 Menswear collection.


The comments to this entry are closed.